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The is also a rubber sock lining the inside of the spring to prevent leaks. Also, the shaft seal is an insurance policy. No really, it is. When pool owners hear the warning they may push it to the side. The homeowner may think the pool man is attempting to pad his service call payday. In reality, he is making sure he does not have come back out to your house in a few months because of a leaky motor.
A wet motor is a dead motor; also never feed your motor after midnight. The symptoms of a bad motor caused by a failed shaft seal are bad bearings and water whirling. You will not need a pool tech to help you identify a bad bearing situation — all you need are ears. The unmistakable grinding roar of a bearing is heard from two houses away.
The motor bearings grow loud because of rust forming on the stainless ball bearings that allow the shaft to spin. The phenomena of whirling is seen on the face of the motor. This white haze shown in the picture is residue left from water that has been trapped between the motor face and seal plate. This whirling pattern will eventually become rust and a new motor is soon to follow.
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And for the curious few out there looking to install a shaft seal themselves, here is our how to guide covering the task step by step: How To Replace a Pool Motor Shaft Seal. The standard issue shaft seal in pool pumps for decades its ideal application is for your standard chlorine pools.
The materials that make up this shaft seal are not applicable to saltwater or pools with ozonators. Sidenote, though seals can be left installed for years we suggest after prolonged dormancy periods, like winter closings, that you replace the seal the following spring. Their relatively low maintenance and long term cost efficiency have proven to be key factors in their popularity. As a matter of fact, I love them because they cut my work in half but pool pump shaft seals do not share my enthusiasm for SWGs.
The two mix about as well oil and water, or in this case, salt and rubber. Salt has a natural tendency to draw and hold water from its environment. This phenomena is called hygroscopy.
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A couple of examples of this reaction are the curing of meat or salting of the earth to prevent plant growth. The salt pulls the moisture from the subject preserving it or in the latter, killing growth. This reaction from hygroscopy is deadly to the rubber and phenolic plastic in the standard pool pump shaft seal. As the salt removes moisture from these components, their elasticity, durability and dependability leave with it.
This domino effect creates seams between the two halves of the seal eventually leading to water seepage to the motor. We normally suggest the saltwater shaft seal for even standard applications because of its reliability and ruggedness. These seals are the special forces of their kind.
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The SCS seal holds up against corrosive chemicals, water, and loss of prime. The superior silicon carbide material reduces heat within the seal allowing the motor to run dry for longer. If a standard seal were to run dry due to loss of prime, it would melt and possibly damage the motor. Application : There are no major operational limitations to this shaft seal like there are on the previous models.
The SCS can handle pretty much anything with the only downside being the price. This one seal can be twice as much or more than its saltwater counterpart. Pump shaft seals share component functionality that is virtually identical throughout the major manufacturers. The function of the components may be similar but the style or design of the component may vary. Here we list the varying style of shaft seal heads and seats as according to U. Seal manufacturer handbook:.
Type A — This is one of the two major standard shaft seal head style for inground pool pumps. Type G — Normally found on premium pumps such as a Hayward Tristar or variable speeds pumps, it features a rubber butt end which helps with fit. Type 1 — Standard style for inground, spa and spa pumps. The rubber sleeve ensures a firm watertight installation into the seal plate.
Type 2 — An antiquated style slowly be phased out for the type 1; an example of a type 25 shaft seal is found on Sta-Rite Dura-Glas models manufactured before Type 32 — Used on Vico spa pumps mostly, this is the least common of all seats. Well, that covers it in terms of shaft seals. If you have any more questions or if you think we skipped anything, please give us a call and let us know.
We can be reached at I took it apart and all i can find is a number CP1 on my seal plate. Does that do me any good? Hi, my name is James and i have a Pentair EQ pump that is leaking from the seal. Bought a motor and salt water seal kit… lots of seals. Using rub'n'buff silver leaf metallic finish, put that on your finger and smear that where ever there should be some wear and tear. That mean most protruding edges, but also in random spots all around. This part may get tedious, but it's one of my favorite parts and in the end is makes so much of a difference.
These things get tricky.
After making mine I found a better way of doing it. Cutting the chrome mask to the shape needed is required, but some extra room can be left if being applied from the inside. Mine was then secured with hot glue. Participated in the Halloween Costume Contest Reply 2 years ago. For this set I just put some silver rub'n'buff on my finger and smeared it around anywhere I felt like there should be some weathering.
This creates the look that the top coat of red has chipped off to reveal some sort of metal underneath. The helmet was a whole separate adventure that involved 3d printing about 20 separate pieces. Special thanks to Big Red Frog for making his helmet model public on thingiverse. Add Teacher Note. Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Cardboard Gramaphone Passive Speaker.
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